Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Anything’s Possible


Here’s yet another apocryphal story: A rookie football player scores his first touchdown, and in his zeal to impress his coach with his passion for the game, makes a complete fool of himself dancing like a dork on the field. When he gets back to the bench, he expects praise, but all the coach says is, “Son, next time you’re in the end zone, try to act like you’ve been there before.”

I’m feeling a little like that football player lately, except it’s not an act with me. I’m genuinely having trouble acting cool. I finally found a copy of The Best Womens’ Travel Writing 2007. It’s the first anthology I’ve ever appeared in, and I’m just pleased as punch.

Yesterday I went to my favorite bookstore, Book Passage, in Corte Madera to pick up a copy I’d reserved. “Best Women’s Travel Writing, eh?” the man at the counter said to me as he handed me the book off the hold shelf. I was dying for him to ask why I wanted this title badly enough to special order it, but he didn’t. So I took my self-satisfaction outside. (First, though, I bought a cookie at the in-store café and was so excited I walked away and left it there.)

I sat down on a short stone pillar outside. I happened to be wearing a t-shirt I’d gotten from a charity I volunteered with at Christmas. On the front it said: “Anything is Possible.” A man walked by as I was flipping through the book (I’m on page 288) and said to me, “Cool shirt.” I thanked him, not really knowing what else to say. “It’s true, too, you know,” he replied, “Anything is possible.”

It made me happy to hear those words coming from him. I don’t know the guy personally, but I’ve seen him around before. He works at the REI next door to the bookstore. Aside from that, the only other thing I know about him is that he has a prosthetic leg, which doesn’t seem to slow him down a bit. (Well, maybe it does, but I hate to think how exuberantly energetic his pace would be with two good legs.)

Again not knowing how to respond, I heard myself blurt, “Well, I like to think that’s true.” And watching this man stride around like a titanium leg wasn’t any impediment at all, and seeing this book in my hands that had the words “Nicole” and “Best” together on the same page, I realized that at that moment, I actually believed what I’d just said.


(I almost left out the most important part of that story: The cookie was still there on the counter when I went back for it.)

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Separated at Birth?


Have you ever been one place and suddenly thought you were someplace else for a second? Something about the way a road curves, or the light falls will occasionally make me think so much of someplace else that I get disoriented.

No, it’s just me? Oh dear. Well, anyway, one of those things happened to me in Southern California over the weekend. I was on the street pictured in yesterday’s post, looking at the hills in the photo. I think they are in Pacific Palisades. The hills could be further north than that—I’m not sure, but it doesn’t really matter. The important thing is that I’m certain they aren’t in northern China, but just for a second, I thought I was. Something about the hazy light, and the green, jagged peaks made me expect to see the Great Wall snaking along the ridgeline. I had one of those “whoa” moments. Then I felt my car keys in my pocket, and Pipi said something, and I saw the Italianate mansions along the street, and I was back in California.

Everyone I mentioned my moment to that day thought I was a little nuts. I won’t directly dispute that, but I do submit the above photo as evidence that like a stopped clock, I am sometimes right.

Today’s photo was taken last summer at the Simatai section of the Great Wall, a few hours outside of Beijing. I’m glad I dug it up. It’s not the greatest photo of the Wall ever taken, but I can see what threw me. The hazy light, the muted greenery, the intimidating stone architecture…it’s all there in both photos. (Which comes as a great relief to me—even I was starting to wonder how I got China on the brain.)

Monday, April 09, 2007

Gloomy Day in Los Angeles


Pipi assures me this kind of weather is not too unusual for Los Angeles, but this was the first overcast day I had ever seen there. (I saw it rain once, but sustained gloom was new to me.)

It didn’t matter, though. We weren’t there to sunbathe, so we had a nice visit. We spent most of Saturday with Pipi’s family. It’s not really important exactly where they live. Let’s just say that if you were playing Frisbee, an errant throw could end up on the Pacific Coast Highway. But it would be in transit for quite a while.

Saturday evening, we headed to Redondo Beach, where a friend of mine from high school now lives. Sunday morning she and her husband showed us the town, which they describe as a little more family oriented than say, Manhattan Beach or Hermosa Beach. I hadn’t realized the beaches all had such a sense of place, but my friend says that she knows people who grew up in L.A. and still don’t know their Beaches. That made me feel better. I actually feel as though I know a local secret now.

In case you were wondering (I was): Yes, there is a beach at Redondo Beach. A nice one. We walked along it for a while and watched surfers and volleyball players. It wasn’t sunset, but it still seemed as quintessentially a Southern Californian scene as it could be without roller skates or a yoga mat.

Friday, April 06, 2007

Fun Fact

I had always assumed that Australia and North America were antipodal. Growing up, I thought that if I dug a hole straight through the center of the earth, I would come out in Australia. But it turns out that I’m wrong. Weather I started my hole in Massachusetts or California, I still would come out in the Indian Ocean, west of Australia.

I know this because of a few of fun tools I found online. The first one will tell you the latitude and longitude of your exact address. I discovered that I live at latitude 37.801647 north and 122.240237 west longitude.

The second tool is an antipode calculator. Plug in your hometown coordinates, and it will tell you the coordinates of the farthest place on the globe from where you live—your antipode. In my case, that’s 37.801647 S and 57.759763 E. If you want to know where in the world that is, go to this third tool, type in the new coordinates (western and southern latitudes are negative), and it will show you your antipode's location on a map.

It took me a while to figure out where in the world my antipode is, because Mapquest showed nothing but water until I zoomed way out. It turned out to be at the tip of a trench in the Indian Ocean, closer to South Africa than Australia.

Sorry, short post today. I have to go start filling in that big disappointing hole in my back yard.

Thursday, April 05, 2007

Top Ten From Down Under

I stand corrected: There’s a chorus of “hey hey heys” at the end of “Sly.” I think that counts as nonsense. So “Sly” has three of the four possible great-song elements. No wonder I like it.

I didn’t mean to start another music post, though. I wanted to write about something else I’ve always admired about Australia: their movies. You almost can’t go wrong. I saw one once (Oscar and Lucinda) that was kind of boring, but I’ve liked every other Australian film that I can remember seeing. Here are some favorites, in rough chronological order.

  • Picnic at Hanging Rock
  • My Brilliant Career
  • Gallipoli
  • Starstruck
  • The Year of Living Dangerously
  • Rikky and Pete
  • The Sum of Us
  • The Adventures of Priscilla: Queen of the Desert
  • Moulin Rouge
  • Rabbit-Proof Fence

Wednesday, April 04, 2007

Where Women Glow and Men Chunder

Is it wrong to plan a trip around music? Probably not—I’m sure there are worse reasons to travel. It may, however, be wrong to base your entire concept of a nation’s identity on its pop music.

But I have. I’ve been obsessed with Australia ever since Men at Work introduced me to “The Land Down Under” when I was in junior high school. Then there was Crowded house, INXS, ACDC (initials were big in the 80s, weren’t they?), Midnight Oil, and a long string of other Aussies culminating in Xavier Rudd and the Waifs. I even like Olivia Newton John, just because she has that great accent.

Lately I’ve been taken with a song I keep hearing on KFOG. They’re not good with group names on that station, but I finally listened long enough to discover that it’s a song called “Sly,” by the Cat Empire. They’re from Melbourne. I don’t know much about them, but I know that the song has two of the four elements that to me, ensure musical perfection: It’s catchy, and the band looks like it’s having a lot of fun doing what it does. (The other two essential elements are a lapse into “Sha la las” or other nonsense lyrics, and exotic place names. A song can still be really good with less than the full complement, though.)

All this is a long way of saying that Australia just bumped up several more places on my list of countries I really want to visit. As I’ve said before, I really do want to visit all of them, but realistically, there are some I want to see more than others, and Australia is definitely top five. I don’t know when it will happen, but someday I will get there.

And I’m bringing a tape recorder with me.

Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Next on the Itinerary

Southeast Asia? Antarctica? The Riviera? Nope. Next weekend Pipi and I are going to Los Angeles. We’re going to have a Passover Seder at her parents’ house, and we’re going to stay with a high school friend of mine. It will be Easter Sunday, so I’m not sure what we’ll do. Maybe an arboretum. I’ll let you know what we come up with.

Monday, April 02, 2007

Business as Usual

Meanwhile, life goes on. Via magazine rejected my Trans-Siberian railroad pitch, saying it’s too far afield for them. I’m not too surprised—it was always a stretch. They’ve run articles about Cuba and New Zealand before, so I was hopeful, but really, it doesn’t make too much sense for the magazine of the Western States’ auto club to print an article about Siberia. So I’ll try somewhere else. There’s got to be someone who wants an article about what even the Via editor described as “One heck of a ride.”

Friday, March 30, 2007

Devine Secrets of the Ink-Stained Sisterhood

Barbara Kingsolver and I are practically sisters now. Not blood sisters, of course. More like ink sisters. Sisters who have never met. Sisters who can’t pick each other out of a lineup. Sisters who aren’t necessarily mutually aware that the other exists.

So maybe we’re not so much sisters. But today I did happen to see my name on the same web page as hers. This tickled me deeply because she’s one of my favorite authors. I read and re-read The Bean Trees compulsively when I, like the heroine of that book, was in my early 20s and new to the West.

The web page that includes both of us is part of the Travelers’ Tales web site. It’s promoting the book The Best Women’s Travel Writing 2007, which, as it turns out, we both appear in. I feel like it’s a huge honor for me to see my name just a few signatures removed from the author of The Poisonwood Bible.

I’m not sure how Barbara feels about it though. I guess I’ll have to ask her at the next family reunion.

Thursday, March 29, 2007

Viva Andorra

Also, Andorra has the longest life expectancy of any country in the world: 83.51 years. It just moved up several notches on the list of countries I’d like to visit. (It was always on the list; they all are. It was just a matter of rank.)

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Fun Fact

The capital of Andorra is Andorra la Vella. Who knew it even had a capital? I thought it was one of those city/state deals, like Monaco. Oh, and the official language is Catalan. Didn’t know that, either.

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

This Site Rocks

Here’s another outlet I’ve found for some of my articles: See The Globe.com. It’s an excellent Web site, and I’d have said so even before the webmaster agreed to let me post some content in the Travel Reviews section. You can book travel, although not directly—enter information in the search box, and the site asks you which big-name sites (Travelocity, Expedia, etc.) you want it to search for you. Then it goes to those sites.

What See The Globe does best is content. I can’t tell you how validating it is to see a travel site with so much content. (“Content” is, of course, dot-com talk for “stuff people wrote.”) There are articles, and restaurant reviews, and a blog. There are guidebook reviews, and places where site users can post their own reviews. (They can rate the articles, too. So far no one’s commented on mine—these would be my first reviews so the idea is scary!)

Oh, and this is very cool. I am surprised more sites haven’t copied this. It’s an interactive map called “Where in the world is…?” It’s a world map with an alphabetical list of countries next to it. Click on a country name, and the map zooms into that country. Ever wondered where exactly Andorra is? Now you can find out. Clicking on a country also brings up a lot of information like the population, and the capital city. There are links to whatever other information the site has about that place.

What I really love about the site is that it assumes that visitors come to it with a sense of curiosity. Most other travel sites, including one that employed me for many years, seemed to assume that users already knew where they wanted to go, and didn’t offer them much other information to browse and daydream about. Although to their credit, market research showed that their assumption was correct. People don’t go to Travelocity wondering where to go. They go there looking for the lowest fare for the trip to Las Vegas they’ve already planned. I understand that, but it always made me sad. Kudos to See The Globe for keeping the wanderlust dream alive.

Monday, March 26, 2007

You Break It, You Bought It

I’ve signed up with a web site called iTravelSyndicate.com. It’s a site where, for a small subscription fee, you can post travel stories that you want to re-sell to new editors at a bargain rate. I once heard the site described by another travel writer as the best $39 he ever spent.

I haven’t exactly been having that kind of luck with it. Actually, I haven’t sold anything on it yet. But I am getting some nibbles. There’s a statistics page that tells me people are clicking on the articles. They just aren’t buying.

You know who you are. If you’ve been browsing—thank you very much for stopping by. I appreciate your taking the time. I’m honestly flattered that you seem to be coming back once, maybe even twice to give my pieces another look.

But how about making a freelancer a very happy person? Just go ahead and make the purchase. It’s for a good cause (I assure you). And it’s a good price. Where else are you going to find a certified pre-owned article about Shakespeare’s Verona, Thanksgiving in China, or how to arrange a gay wedding abroad? Please; you won’t regret it. Operators are standing by.

Friday, March 23, 2007

Do I Feed Him?

Well, that’s a tough question but the answer is no. There are a couple of reasons why. The first is that once you start, you really can’t stop. Feeding him would effectively mean that I have a third pet, which would be a violation of our rental agreement.

In addition, adopting Smudge would bring the household cat count to three, while the human population remains steady at two. Exceeding a 1:1 human to cat ratio is a dangerous business. I know households that have accomplished this without devolving into crazy cat lady status, but it’s the exception rather than the rule.

Maybe it sounds mean, but it’s a real worry. I have a lot of time on my hands, and could easily keep an eye on a neighborhood stray. Maybe two. Maybe even three, if they all tended to stick together. But the last thing I need is a herd of strays gobbling up the bits of my time that haven’t already been consumed by compulsive newspaper reading (you can learn a lot about the human condition by reading the classifieds), Youtube surfing (two words: fish heads), and game playing (one more time and I’ll get the center peg for sure).

Thursday, March 22, 2007

Smudge


This guy isn’t my kitty in any sense, but I am starting to feel a little possessive of him. I’ve been seeing him around the neighborhood for a couple of years, all skittish and thin, and I always thought he was a feral cat. But one day he decided he trusted me, and now he’ll often come to me and let me pet him. Now I think maybe he’s abandoned.

I see him behind my building a lot, but more and more he’s spending mornings like this, curled up on a padded chest we have on our fire escape. For some reason, it’s always mornings, and rarely afternoons, even though afternoon is the only time this spot gets direct sun. Another strange thing: He usually bolts when I open the fire escape door. He doesn’t seem to recognize me as the nice lady who pets him on the sidewalk. On the fire escape, I’m suddenly the angel of death hell-bent on possessing him.

His (sometimes) friendliness leads me to believe he once had a home, but whatever name he may have had is lost now. So I call him Smudge. He’s not the prettiest kitty on the block, but he may be the toughest, so he’s got that going for him.

Wednesday, March 21, 2007

Bringing New Meaning to the Term “Cat Box”


Tommy is also doing well. He’s about 10. (We’re not good about his birthday, but he never appreciates the cards anyway.) Even at his age, he has not yet lost his kitten-like ability to get himself into trouble that he can’t necessarily get out of.

This story has a happy ending, though: To everyone’s surprise, including his own, I think, Tommy was able to jump out of the box by himself.

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

Separated at Birth?


Some of you have been wondering about the health and well-being of my cats. This would definitely fall under the “not strictly related” category, but who am I to deny my public?

Teacake (nine years old; thought to be a Maine Coon/Pineapple mix), is doing just fine. Not going hungry or anything. He would like to remind you that the camera adds 10 ounces.

Friday, March 16, 2007

Not Strictly Related, But….

…My sister’s here! She’s going to cooking school in San Francisco for the next six months and living at our parents’ place there. Today we had lunch together and walked around the Mission District. We started at La Taqueria, at 25th and Mission, saw some murals, and then walked up to 18th St., where some gelato may have been tasted at Bi-Rite Creamery. The brown butter pecan ice cream might be amazing.

The only sad note: Valencia St. Books seems to have closed. They had a great cat who lived there named Grumblebunny, which is one of the all-time great cat names. I really wanted to introduce my sister to Grumble, but I guess we’ll have to figure out where she moved to.

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Now With 10% Less Mutton

I couldn’t find a statistic on how many Americans visited Mongolia in 2006, the year I went. So I am not able to feel as proud of myself as I was hoping. I did discover that in 2005, a total of 338,000 people visited the country, and that tourism is increasing by about 15% every year. I don’t know if that’s enough to label the place “up-and-coming,” but it does suggest the marketing department is doing some good. (Apparently the old slogan, “Like China, with vodka” tested well with Russians but still didn’t work out as well as they’d hoped.)

I pitched the idea of an article on Mongolia to an editor at Korean Air’s in-flight magazine. He said maybe. According to him, if they do decide to run a Mongolia story, John and I are in the running. The editor has worked with John before and likes his photography work, so I’m lucky that way.

Wednesday, March 14, 2007

Fun Fact

According to a New York Times archive article that my friend John just dug up and sent to me, in 1991 only 282 Americans visited Mongolia.

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

Old Town Oakland Find

Pipi and I had almost forgotten how much we liked a restaurant we’d been to once before: Tamarindo, in the Old Town neighborhood of Oakland. This is a neighborhood, which, as you might guess, has lots of nice Victorian buildings. Developers seem to have found it, which is good, in this case, because there wasn’t much going on before—it was mostly boarded up like too much of the downtown still is. So I don’t regard Old Town as some kind of heavy-handed gentrification project. (I’m not saying that never happens in Oakland; I just don’t think that’s what’s going on here.)

The restaurant bills itself as an “Antojeria,” which is translated from Spanish to mean “place of little cravings.” They usually serve a few special entrees each night, but most of the menu is small plates. I guess you could call it Mexican tapas.

Pipi and I went again last Saturday night and it was as good if not better than the first time. We had crispy little shrimp tacos, a beef torta, and plantains. For dessert, there was a dulce de leche crepe. I had sparkling pomegranate juice to drink. (Mexican restaurants always seem to have interesting drinks, so I usually try something I’m not positive I’m going to like. I almost always do.)

Here’s a link to the menu so you can see what I’m talking about.

Monday, March 12, 2007

Not Strictly Related, But….

…Boy, it sure was dark this morning when I woke up.

The time change brings out the curmudgeon in some of my family members. I don’t personally mind so much the change in the spring. I really like it when it stays light late.

No, what makes me cranky is changing the clocks. My computer was smart enough to see this coming, and so was my cable TV box. Every other time-telling device in the house acted like it’s from Arizona and had no idea what was going on. Pipi and I spent a lot of Sunday morning changing a grand total of five watches, two wall clocks, two alarm clocks, the VCR, the microwave, and toaster-oven clocks; the kitchen radio clock; the thermostat; one desk-top clock; two car radios; and--this is a new one for us—the telephone time display. (Luckily, if you change one phone, it gets the word out to the other extensions.)

The worst part is that I fear some of these time pieces are going to jump themselves forward an hour in April when they’re used to changing, and we’ll have to repeat the whole room-to-room assault.

Friday, March 09, 2007

The Tao of Dumplings

I was going to call this post “Spreading the Gospel of Dumplings,” but that seemed culturally inappropriate on several levels.

A few days ago Pipi and I went to Crown Wok, the new Chinese place I found with Shanghai dumplings. They were good! Maybe not quite as good as at the Oakland restaurant called Shanghai, but still, a middling Shanghai dumpling is worth driving downtown for.

Maybe you’re wondering what a Shanghai dumpling is. I know I’ve described them before; they’re small steamed dumplings that somehow have broth sealed inside. (Here’s a link to a photo: http://twoseasmedia.com/images/allblogs/2006/ShanghaiCafe_soupdumplings_1.jpg) I’ve also heard them called “soup dumplings.” In Mandarin, their name is “xiao long bao:” “little dragon dumplings.” That might be the only Chinese you really need to know in China. (Most other things you can mime, point to, or explain in rudimentary English.) They’re everywhere in Shanghai. They’re usually served as an appetizer, but I often said I could eat a whole pile of them for dinner. And several times I ended up wishing I had because what came next usually couldn’t compare. It’s like starting with dessert first. You just don’t want the salad after that.

(A small disappointment regarding Crown Wok: When I went there today, they didn’t have bubble tea as advertised. I feel a little misled, but there are so many places to find it in nearby Chinatown that I got over it quickly.)

Thursday, March 08, 2007

More Oakland Surprises

Today I walked through Old Town and came out on the other side of it. My gut feeling is that this is where West Oakland begins. There, around Interstate 980, it starts to feel a little run-down, and you start to see projects. It’s the kind of Oakland neighborhood with really nice Victorian houses that are completely falling apart.

I wasn’t really in the ’hood; it felt safe. It was just interesting to see the transition.

I found two things there that took me by surprise a little bit. Maybe surprise isn’t the word—it’s certainly not surprising to find either one in Oakland. I guess I’m just a little embarrassed to find that there are points of interest in parts of town I’d at least subconsciously dismissed as having nothing for me.

The first surprising thing was a museum of African American history. I have to admit, I didn’t realize Oakland had one. But we do. It was closed when I went by, but I will definitely check it out soon.

The other nice surprise was discovering that there was a Unitarian church with a rainbow sticker across its sign. I wondered for a moment if they knew what it meant, but then I noticed that right below it, it said “EVERYONE welcome.” There was also a quote from the Taoist Chuang Tsu, something about how everything you need to know can be found in a drop of water. I thought about that all the way up to Broadway. I was really thirsty when I got there. But I liked Oakland even more.

Wednesday, March 07, 2007

Why I Love Oakland


On yesterday’s downtown walk, I discovered one short block—Tenth Street between Clay and Washington—that has three restaurants on it. One is Chinese, one is Thai, and the other is Vietnamese. I know I’ve been on this block before because I remember going to the Vietnamese restaurant, Le Cheval. It’s very good. I never noticed the other two restaurants, though. They may be new. I will certainly try the Chinese one very soon, because in addition to being yet another place where you can get bubble tea, it also has my favorite Chinese treat of all: Shanghai dumplings. I must have written about these before, but I feel I can’t work hard enough to get the word out. They’re little steamed dumplings filled with shrimp and pork. What makes them special is partly the sauce, a tangy, gingery soy sauce and vinegar mix. It’s also the fact that the dumplings somehow are steamed with a thick, rich broth inside. I don’t know how they do that. Ancient Chinese secret, I guess.

But to get back to what made me remember how much I love Oakland, it goes beyond the fact that in this city you can find three different types of Asian food on the same side of one short street.

What really did it for me is the fact that while I was standing in front of the Chinese restaurant reading the menu, I could hear, coming from somewhere (I never did discover where) the sound of bagpipes. That kind of thing, cultural diversity raised to a surreal art form, just made me fall in love with Oakland all over again.

Tuesday, March 06, 2007

All We Are Saying

I’ve been in touch with the editor of the Chronicle Sunday Magazine, and my article is a go. On May 20, it’s going to appear in the “My Word” section, which is the next-to-last page of the magazine where there’s always a freelance-written essay.

It was a good editorial experience. The editor had two concerns, which she allowed me the chance to fix up. I appreciate that she didn’t just toss it on the reject pile for the sin of not being perfect. I wish we hadn’t lost the last line of the piece, but I can live without it, and following through with the other suggestion definitely made the essay stronger. I wish all editors were this willing to give a piece a chance.

Monday, March 05, 2007

Revised Score

Upon further review, I realize the Solas awards weren’t a complete shutout. I won an honorable mention for my coin collecting piece, the one the Christian Science Monitor published.

Friday, March 02, 2007

We Now Return to Our Regularly Scheduled Life

Well, the Solas awards were a shutout. Readers of yesterday’s blog will probably guess that I’m disappointed, but it’s all good. For one thing, I honestly am glad to get to delete a bookmark. It’s bad enough how many times in a normal day I click over to E! Online and SF Gate. I wasn’t looking for any more sites to obsessively monitor.

The other good thing is that I got a very nice and encouraging e-mail from the Executive Editor of Travelers’ Tales, who happened to read my blog (didn’t see that coming) and was, I think, a little concerned for my mental health. I’ll tell you what I told him, which is that I may have been exaggerating my compulsive nature a tiny bit. Okay, I admit, I really did check the Travelers’ Tales site first thing. Maybe more than once. But I also went for a walk, cleaned up the kitchen, updated my profile on some networking sites, and even did a little writing. I didn’t strictly speaking, actually put my whole life on hold waiting for a web site to refresh.

To put it in perspective, I’m actually a lot more upset by the fact that my second-favorite Bay-Area radio station switched overnight to a Toby Keith-style, Southern Comfort-swilling, Chevy-driving, boot-scootin’, slap-your-Mama country format. That, my friends, is disappointing.

Thursday, March 01, 2007

The Suspense is Killing Me

Several months ago I submitted a few articles to a writing contest called the Solas Awards. It’s sponsored by Travelers’ Tales, a publishing company that specializes in compilations of travel writing. There are 21 categories open to submission, each with gold, silver, and bronze awards, so that seemed auspicious. More categories means more opportunities to win, right?

For months there has been a little note on the Travelers’ Tales web site saying that Solas Awards winners will be announced “by March 1, 2007.” All this week I’ve been compulsively checking back to the site. Today’s’ the big day, so I checked in first thing this morning. Now there’s a note saying that winners will be posted “sometime Thursday, March 1, 2007.” (That doesn’t seem to be grammatically the same as “by March 1, 2007,” but I quibble.)

You can imagine how my morning has gone so far. Boot up computer, check Travelers' Tales site. Make coffee, check Travelers' Tales site. Eat cereal, check Travelers' Tales site. Bookmark Travelers' Tales site, check Travelers' Tales site. Repeat.

It’s silly, I know. Even though it’s the inaugural year of the competition, I’m sure they’re inundated with submissions and there’s no real reason to think I could have won something. My behavior makes about as much sense as someone compulsively pulling a slot-machine handle, saying each time, “This is the big one, I can feel it.” In fact, these behaviors are probably not unrelated. So there’s a sense in which I am secretly enjoying this torture. But I really do want it to be over so I can get my life back.

(And by “get my life back,” I of course mean that I want to return to punctuating my day by obsessively checking my regular fleet of time-wasting web sites. Enough with Travelers’ Tales.)

Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Shine on, You Crazy Sunshine State

Shrines to dead Playboy models. Castles made of petrified sea creatures. A mania for Depression-era architecture. Why is Florida so nutty? I’m not sure. I’m not even sure if it’s a chicken or egg situation—do heat, humidity, and insects the size of squirrels attract crazy people? Or do these things drive normal new arrivals nuts? Is it drugs? I’m not sure. Any insight would be appreciated.

All I can say is that Miami wasn’t quite what I expected—it was much better. I knew I’d like the deco district, and that I would find Little Havana interesting. I had no idea that so much of South Florida would be this way. I think I expected Southern California-style suburbia and air-conditioned blandness the second we left Miami proper. I definitely expected a strong redneck influence. I was wrong about all those things. Even the air conditioning. We managed to be there on the coldest day of the year. Floridians were all wearing sweaters and parkas and preparing for the Rapture. It wasn’t that cold, but we did turn on the heat in our hotel room two out of three nights.

Oh, and that clanking noise you heard? That was the sound of Florida lumbering its way out of last place on my list of favorite states. I’m not sure yet how many spots it moved up. I definitely shot past both Mississippi and Texas. After that, rankings get difficult because I’ve found at least one thing to like in every other state I’ve been to, so it’s hard to compare. I guess a better way to say it is that, on the strength of pure Miami zaniness, the Sunshine State dropped off my Don’t Like It list and onto the much larger list of States I Would Gladly Return To.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

Coral Castle

I’ve added a few photos to my Miami gallery. They’re taken at a place called the Coral Castle, in Homestead, Florida. It’s about an hour’s drive southwest from Miami.

The Coral Castle was built in the 1930s and 1940s by a man named Ed Leedskalnin, who was, quite frankly, just plain nuts. As a young man in Latvia, he fell in love with a 16-year-old girl who ended up leaving him at the alter (possibly it was past her bedtime). He never got over this, even after moving to South Florida. After buying some land cheaply there, he decided to dedicate his life to building a castle out of coral rock, a fortress where he and his beloved (who would understand the error of her ways after she saw the coral bedroom furniture he carved for her) would live out their days.

It didn’t work out that way. The girl married someone else and stayed in Latvia. The man eventually died alone, surrounded by his self-published treatises on electromagnetism. It’s kind of a sad story, but it makes for an interesting tourist attraction now.

One thing that isn’t so crazy about the building is the decision to use coral rock. Apparently if you dig anywhere in this part of Florida, you find a few inches of sandy topsoil and about 4,000 feet of coral. What’s crazy, besides the fact that only the actual sleeping quarters has a roof, is what exactly he built out of the coral. After he’d built walls and a very Spartan bedroom/tool shed, he started building furniture. Out of rock. In the middle of his courtyard. Things like a 5,000-pound, heart-shaped dining-room table, a stone couch, and even a rocky double bed with a nearby coral cradle, just in case his Latvian lass had a change of heart.

One piece of furniture I really liked was his reading lounge. He built a sort of a stone chaise longue for reading in a reclining position. Ed was only about five feet tall. I’m not significantly taller, and I found that the curves and contours were incredibly comfortable for someone my size. Although I guess it wouldn’t be quite so nice in the rain.

Another amazing thing is the main gate to the castle, no longer in use. It weighs nine tons, but it’s said that back in the day, it was so well balanced that a child could push it open. The hinges are rusted and fused now, so it’s impossible to test if this was ever really true, but the guy does seem to have been some kind of eccentric genius for sure.

Another surreal touch is the fact that the whole complex is overrun by giant lizards. Well, maybe “overrun” is a strong word, but I saw several. They’re huge. Not iguana sized, but far larger than the speedy little fly-eaters we have in California. They were well over a foot long, and extremely colorful. I asked the lady in the gift shop what they were called. She didn’t know, but she did tell me that someone figured out that they are from West Africa. No one knows exactly how they got here, but they don’t seem to have major predators, and the population is starting to get a little out of hand.

My guidebook described the Coral Castle as possibly the strangest tourist attraction in Florida. The field is strong, but this just may be it.
28655 South Dixie Highway
Homestead, Fl 33030
http://www.coralcastle.com/

Monday, February 26, 2007

My Personal Miami Vice

I’m a big fan of art deco architecture. I’m not sure where I get this from—you don’t see a lot of deco in New England—but somehow I acquired a taste. For that reason, I’ve wanted to go to Miami’s South Beach deco district for a long time. And this was almost the first thing Pipi and I did in the Miami area.

We went on a self-guided audio tour, which was nice. There’s nothing more exhausting than trudging along with a tour group. We got to do this at our own pace, which may have actually have been faster than the personal guided tour. We learned a lot about deco, including the fact that the ridges you often see above windows on art deco buildings are called “eyebrows.” Who knew? We also learned that windows that wrap around corners are a typical deco detail. The building Pipi and I live in, built in the late 1930s, has windows like this, which made me like our apartment even more.

The tour mostly stuck to Ocean Drive, in South Beach. This street has an amazing number of deco buildings, mostly hotels. Apparently a lot were nearly knocked down in the 1980s, which spurred a movement to restore them instead. It’s beautiful now—almost too beautiful. The people are intimidatingly pretty. I don’t think we’d have had much luck trying to get past the velvet ropes at the clubs there, but we weren’t interested in that. We just wanted to see the buildings. We had lunch in the most deco diner ever, a metal-plated Pullman car-style diner that for some reason had been moved there from Pennsylvania. It was all exactly what I’d hoped for. A great introduction to Miami.

Here are a few South Beach photos.

Friday, February 23, 2007

We Interrupt This Travelogue…

...To bring you exciting news: The San Francisco Chronicle is considering publishing one of my essays. This isn’t a travel essay; this is that piece about a neighbor’s suicide. I sent it to the Chronicle Sunday magazine, and the editor told me she likes it, and would like it even better with a couple of edits. I did that and sent it back to her today. I’ll let you know how it goes!

Thursday, February 22, 2007

That About Sums it Up


Dave Barry has been saying this for years, but I still was unprepared. I guess I thought he might be making it up. But he’s not. South Florida is wacky. It’s got the craziest drivers, the zaniest media circuses, and the oddest architecture imaginable. I like the place a lot; quirkiness is good, in my book. I’m just surprised, is all. The other parts of Florida that I’ve been to (and which are not Orlando) have been conservative, bland and suburban. Miami is appealingly weird. More on this tomorrow—I actually have a day job this week, editing a cookbook, and the deadline is looming.

(Oh, the sign pictured is above the entrance to a bar on Biscayne Boulevard, near the Ft. Lauderdale airport. This may be the official Florida state motto. If it isn’t, it ought to be.)

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Just Back From…


The Anna Nicole Smith Vigil in Broward County, Florida.

We went because: Anna Nicole Smith died near Miami, and various parties are fighting over who gets her body in a courtroom in Ft. Lauderdale. I don’t know if it’s the biggest story in the country right now (though it may be--we joked that CNN stood for “Constant Nicole News”). But it certainly is the biggest thing going on in Florida. How could we miss it?

Don’t miss: The makeshift memorial that has sprung up at the morgue in Dania Beach, where Anna Nicole’s body is being kept.

Don’t bother: Driving past the County courthouse in Ft. Lauderdale hoping to catch a glimpse of the litigants in the body-custody case. The media scrum around the entrance is so tight you’ll never be able to see through them. And besides, the real star of the show is the one person we know won’t be able to make it.

Coolest Souvenir: If you’re in the right place at the right time, you may get to see yourself on national television.

Worth a splurge: Please, if you want to honor the woman’s memory, pick up something classier than the not-found-in-nature-colored teddy bears and left-over Valentine’s day balloons from Walgreen’s that people have been leaving.

I wish I’d packed: My computer. As good as Pipi is at navigation, it would have been a lot easier to find the Broward County Medical Examiner’s Office with the help of the Internet.

Friday, February 16, 2007

Update

Pipi is much better now, thanks! She went to work this morning and expects to make it though the day.

Also, we’re leaving town early tomorrow morning for Miami, so I probably won’t blog until we’re back Wednesday. I’ll let you all know then how it went!

Thursday, February 15, 2007

Staying out of Each Other’s Way

I’m pretty used to having the place to myself during the day. So it came as a little bit of a shock when Pipi came home early from work today. I’d almost forgotten what it was like to have co-workers, so there was a little bit of an adjustment. The apartment is plenty big; the trick was in finding me the space to work, and Pipi the space to relax and feel sorry for herself, which is everyone’s right on a sick day.

In the end it wasn’t that hard. I have a laptop, so it was easy to move to the living room. Pipi took to bed with the sound turned off on her hand-held video game. Everyone was happy. Just another minor adventure in working at home.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Happy Valentine’s Day

No big news to report today. I just want to wish everyone a very happy Valentine’s Day!

Tuesday, February 13, 2007

Though Round the Girdled Earth They Roam…

…They still manage to find each other. Dartmouth folks, I mean. Yesterday I got an email out of the blue from a classmate I was slightly acquainted with in college. He saw a blurb about travel writing I sent to our class newsletter and decided to get in touch. It turns out he’s now the managing editor at MSN travel. This could be a very good thing. I will try not to let 10 more years go by before my next class notes update.

(And yes, the word is “girdled.” I checked.)

Monday, February 12, 2007

Some Good News

I’m part of a professional Bay-Area group called Left Coast Writers. There are meetings roughly twice a month, one where members can give readings, and one where a guest speaker is brought in to talk to us. Sometimes there are book launch parties for members lucky enough to have gotten published on a grand scale. There are usually networking gatherings after each meeting. The leader is a very successful woman named Linda Watanabe-McFerrin who makes herself very available for consultations and advice. All in all, it’s a very valuable resource for writers in Northern California.

One other perk of membership is that there is a Web site associated with it called Road Work. Six times a month, they publish a members’ writings there. I’m going to be the May author—they’ve agreed to take an essay that started life as a January blog entry. (I gave it a good working over before I sent it. It’s better now.)

Friday, February 09, 2007

Personal Best

Also, a Bay-Area publication got back to me with a rejection in what is, for that periodical, record time: 47 days.

Thursday, February 08, 2007

Mongolia: Now With 50% Less Mutton

You’re probably wondering which article they rejected—I wondered, too. I had to do some research to figure out which one. Turns out it was a travel essay about Mongolia. Kind of a tough sell, I guess.

Wednesday, February 07, 2007

Returning to Normal

Meanwhile, life goes on. After an unprecedented streak of recognition and publication, the rejections are starting to pick up again. I got a very nice form letter from the L.A. Times magazine telling me my article did not meet their editorial needs at that time. As usual, I’m just glad they let me know. (To their credit, the L.A. Times is very good about that.)

Tuesday, February 06, 2007

QM2


Over the weekend, Cunard’s Queen Mary II was in port. It’s the largest ship ever to enter the San Francisco Bay. It’s hard to imagine that there will ever be a larger ship that makes the trip, because the QM2 steamed under the Bay Bridge with only about 40 feet to spare. If the tide had been high, it would have been more like 25 feet.

I went to the Marina Green with my parents to see it come in, and this turned out to be a pretty good viewing point. The ship made its entrance dramatically, about an hour late, flanked by helicopters, small planes, a tugboat, a pilot, and a fireboat spewing fountains of seawater all over. It was certainly an impressive sight.

Monday, February 05, 2007

Boy Was I Off


My photo appeared yesterday. It wasn’t a Russian sign at all—it was this one. The photo wasn’t taken in any particularly exotic place, unless you consider Alameda, CA exotic. (It is technically an island.) I sent it in about a year ago. I guess they have a backlog.

Friday, February 02, 2007

Every Freelancer’s Dream

Actually, this is probably everyone’s dream: You hear the mail arrive, and go downstairs for it thinking, “Wouldn’t it be great if today someone sent me money I wasn’t expecting?”

Well, today it happened. I got a check for $50 from Doug Lansky, of Signspotting fame. This is a syndicated weekly column that highlights unintentionally funny signs sent in by travelers. I don’t know what sign they’re using. I have sent pictures of quite a few over the years. My round-the-world trip yielded several. (And I didn’t even have my camera handy when I saw the funniest one, a sign in Beijing pointing the way to the “Clubfoot ball team”—a soccer club, I think.)

I’m guessing it’s one of the pictures I took in Russia. For a European country, they have surpassingly strange signage. My mother and I had a good laugh over one at a church in St. Petersberg that had about 20 little cartoon pictures with slashes through them illustrating things you weren’t allowed to do on church grounds. This seemed to include sleepwalking, sledding, feature-film making, and wearing Speedo bathing suits. I hope that’s the one they use. I don’t know when exactly they’ll print it. The San Francisco Chronicle travel section carries the column, so I’ll just have to keep an eye out for it.

Thursday, February 01, 2007

Buuz Bistro? Dumpling Depot?

Mongolian is a hard language for English speakers to wrap their ears around. It’s also written using the same Cyrillic alphabet that Russian uses. Plus, there’s really no instantly recognizable national dish that makes for a snappy restaurant name, in the manner of Burger Bistro, or Leaning Tower of Pizza.

These are all possible reasons why Oakland’s only Mongolian restaurant is called Pizza Rama.

The restaurant does serve pizza, but if I were running a Mongolian restaurant, I probably would have chosen to play down the European element. They seem to be doing well, though, so that shows what I know. (Maybe I am in the right line of work after all?)

I’ve been meaning to give this place a try since Pipi noticed it downtown months ago. I finally did at lunch today. I had a plate of buuz, which is something I remembered eating when I was in Mongolia last summer. The buuz served to me at the nomad camp outside of Ulaan Bataar was flat and fried; these were steamed but otherwise similar. They were very oily, very meaty, and very, very filling, like the burly big brother of a Chinese dumpling.

The place itself was interesting. It looked like any other small pizza joint, except that there were two enormous menus posted on the wall, one in English and one in Mongolian. There was a message board that had several notices tacked to it, most of them in Mongolian. I could tell that two were for used cars, because the model name was written in English. One was bi-lingual, advertising a room for rent. (No vegetarians need apply, I’m guessing.) There was a stack of glossy fliers of the size and shape that usually advertise nightclub events, but these advertised Grandkhaan Mongolian Vodka. The place seems to be a sort of Mongolian community center, which is kind of cool. I wonder how many Mongolians there are in Oakland?

Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Chicken and Egg-Tart Problem

I’m still doing my pedestrian survey of Oakland. Lately I’ve been purposely walking the less bustling parts of the city because while I was walking Chinatown, I saw many stores and restaurants I wanted to come back to, and I’m still working on that backlog. I want to visit all those places before I discover too many distracting new ones.

That means that lately, I’ve been walking around the semi-industrial areas on the outskirts of Jack London Square, and near the railroad tracks. They’re actually pretty interesting in their own rough way. There’s a lot more going on than I expected. It doesn’t feel deserted or creepy, and I discovered some nice little parks and pedestrian paths along the estuary that I didn’t know about.

Still, I have to admit that I’m having a lot more fun exploring the bakeries and cafés of Chinatown. I found two great snack shops, both on Webster Street. The Shooting Star Café has two treats Pipi and I have been meaning to try: lemon coke and condensed milk toast. (Don’t worry; we won’t have them both in the same sitting. We know our limits.)

The other, Sweet Home Bakery, is an even better find, I think. There is no place to sit, but you can get three egg-custard tarts for a dollar, and milk tea is only a dollar more.

I love egg tarts. I had three yesterday. I bought a bag in the afternoon, and by the time I was done with dinner, I’d eaten two of them. I very magnanimously saved one for Pipi to eat after Chinese class. By a strange co-incidence, she came home with her own bag of tarts. I ate the one offered to me because it would have been rude to refuse a gift, right?

What does this have to do with anything? Nothing, really. I just needed to confess my sin of gluttony. (There are still two egg tarts in the refrigerator. I’ve managed to keep myself from them all day so far.)

Tuesday, January 30, 2007

Not Strictly Related, But….

…I found a 2007 penny today, my first of the new year. I literally found it, on the ground in an Albertson’s parking lot. (Yep, I’ve still got it.) This is about the earliest in the year I’ve ever gotten a new coin, although I’m not sure what the record is.

I’ll try not to make the same mistake I made once when I was little. One year my father got a shiny new penny in change during the first weeks of January. (I don’t remember what year exactly—1977, maybe?) He gave it to me, knowing I’d appreciate it. And I did—I latched onto it and, afraid I’d leave it somewhere around the house, didn’t let it go all evening. When I finally did peel my fingers off the coin, it was all tarnished, having aged 10 years in my sweaty little fist. I felt terrible, realizing that I’d tried to protect something beautiful and had ruined it in the process.

I‘m sure there’s a lesson there, but it’s late. I’ll let you draw your own conclusions.

Monday, January 29, 2007

This Is What I’m Talking About
To recap: Fidel Castro—not a nice guy. I went to Cuba (legally) in 2002 uncertain what I thought about the Communist regime. I certainly had concerns about humanitarian issues, but I went there wondering if there were any possibility that trading free speech and property rights might be worth the perks you always hear about: free health care and free education for all.

At the end of a week in Havana and Trinidad, I had decided that in theory, there probably is no way to justify that trade-off, and that the reality of life in Cuba certainly fell short of being a warm, fuzzy workers’ paradise. I got tired of hearing, “But—free health care!” as an answer to any challenge about human rights violations, and by the end of the trip, I’d realized that the health care wasn’t all it was made out to be—the sight of a customs official who had repaired her shattered eyeglass lenses with Scotch Tape made me realize that treatment may be free, but you can’t just run down to Lenscrafters and pick up a new pair of glasses whenever you want.

Plus, the glaring gap in the quality of life between those who area able to participate in the tourist industry (alive and well despite minimal American involvement) and those who have to scratch a living out of the socialist peso-based system was too great to ignore. My impression is that Communism has helped almost no one in Cuba, and that it has harmed just about everyone.

That said, this is just wrong. Celebrate the end of Marxism if you must (and if it happens). But celebrating the end of someone’s life? You can’t do this and expect to find your appropriated ranch waiting for you in heaven when you get there.

Friday, January 26, 2007

Speaking of Miami…

…I got encouraging news from the Miami Herald editor: She’s holding onto one of my stories for possible use later.

She didn’t mean for this news to be encouraging. In fact, she specifically cautioned me that she has about 100 stories in this “maybe” pile. But still, I took it as encouragement since I don’t usually hear anything from editors, and when I do it’s a rejection. As always, I’ll let you know how this turns out.

Thursday, January 25, 2007

Going to Miami

People often ask me where and when my next trip will be, and I now I have a specific answer: Pipi and I are going to Miami for Presidents’ Day weekend (leaving Saturday and returning Tuesday). On the itinerary for sure is the Deco District and Little Havana.

I never thought I’d say this, because I’m not really much of a fan, but I’m finding myself wishing good health to El Jefe. At least until the end of February. Because every time the guy sneezes, it seems like the Miami ex-patriot population dances in the streets. I really don’t want to see what happens in Miami if Castro actually carks it (new Kiwi phrase I just learned) while we’re there. Like I said, he’s not my favorite communist despot, but I still don’t want to witness anyone celebrating his death. That’s beyond bad karma. I don't care how big your finca was in the Batista days. It's just wrong.

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Triple Threat

First I get a photograph published. Today, I got an actual paying gig, but it isn’t writing either. I’ve been asked to edit a cookbook for Meredith Books. So far this year, editing has turned out to be more lucrative than writing, and the only thing I’ve gotten published in 2007 is a photograph. Am I in the wrong line of work?

Tuesday, January 23, 2007

Google and Ye Shall Find

Do you ever Google yourself? I find that from a purely professional standpoint (having nothing to do with my own vanity, I swear), it’s a useful thing to do sometimes. Once I did it and found that the Christian Science Monitor had published one of my articles. I knew they were going to publish it someday, but they’d never told me when. So I was very glad I let curiosity get the best of me that day.

Today, I did it again and found another item that I knew would appear someday. It’s a photo that Out Traveler told me weeks ago they’d include in an online slide show. I finally found it. It’s pretty buried—I still can’t figure out how to navigate to it from the Out Traveler home page, but it doesn’t matter. Here’s the direct link. http://www.outtraveler.com/flash/souvenirs_17.swf. (I'm photo #2.)

Monday, January 22, 2007

Traveling Vicariously

My friends Kristina and Bruce just got back from a trip to Belize and Guatemala with their son, Seth. They have a blog about that. There are a lot of good photos on it—it helps if you like bugs, though. (Seth sure does.)

Friday, January 19, 2007

Dark Day on Ivy Drive

Working at home means I know what goes on around the block during working hours. The woman who lives across the street may wonder what Buddy, her white terrier, does all day alone while she’s at work, but I know. (A lot of standing on the couch, making nose prints on the window, and barking at people walking by.) It’s dark when Moustache’s owners get home, but I know where the patch of sun was that he spent his day in. (He likes to park his large, black-and-white caboose next to a bunch of white flowers in the garden next door to where he lives. I think he thinks he’s hiding but it takes more than a spray of daisies to camouflage an 18-pound cat.)

I see the stay-at-home dad leave a couple of times a day with his toddler son (so much for the labels we put on people). I see the Asian couple with their conical hats going through the recycling bins. I see the guy down the street pull his BMW out of the garage on nice summer days and park it on the street, where he tinkers with it for several hours while listening to the Giants on the radio. He always knocks off in the late afternoon, opening up the parking space to the first of the nine-to-fivers returning home. They probably don’t even know he does this. If they even give it a thought, they probably assume the space has been wide open since early morning, because who comes to visit this residential neighborhood during working hours?

I see all these things, the charming pet behavior, the furtive immigrants smelting a living from our refuse, and the comings and goings of the other people on my street who, like me, don’t seem to have anywhere else they really need to be during the day. I see all these activities, and I follow them, because the sometimes banal, sometimes eccentric pastimes of my neighbors fill a niche I might otherwise be filling with daytime television.

Yesterday, though, was a little different.

“There’s been an accident with one of your neighbors,” the officer told me. I wasn’t exactly surprised—even in Oakland, you don’t glance out the window to find multiple police cars on your street unless something is very wrong. There had been three cars, one parked hurriedly at a skewed angle, partially blocking the street. A blond woman was standing on the sidewalk, talking to one of the officers. From my third-floor nook, I couldn’t hear what she was saying, but I could see she was in tears. She motioned for the officer to follow her up a short flight of stone stairs into a courtyard. Halfway up the stairs, she suddenly dropped to a crouch and took her head in her hands. In a moment, the spasm of grief passed, and she and the policeman continued up the stairs, along a pathway through the courtyard, and out of my sight.

The officer in blue hesitated a moment after informing me of the accident. I hesitated, too, uncertain whether or not I had the right to ask what kind of accident required the services of seven police cars—the three parked on my street, plus four more I’d just discovered around the corner. An empty, idle ambulance stood by as well. It was the largest collection of emergency vehicles I’d seen in a long time. When my car got broken into a few years ago, no cruisers were dispatched—an operator took my name, and it took days for someone from the police department to call me back to take my report. Once I was involved in a three-car accident. The police arrived quickly that time, but only two officers came, with just one car.

We both stood there in awkward silence, and it was then I realized that silence was another oddity. Shouldn’t seven police cars and an ambulance make noise? I hadn’t heard a single siren all morning. What kind of accident requires such a huge emergency response but no sense of urgency? My sense of dread mounted. I shuffled my feet uncomfortably. The officer was dressed so smartly, and I was wearing sweats and the wild hair I’d slept in. I almost hadn’t come out to talk to her at all, embarrassed by my disheveled appearance and the fact that if she asked what I’d been up to that morning, I couldn’t really say. Here she had already dealt with some kind of incident and begun an investigation, and I had nothing to show for my morning but a crumpled newspaper and clean breakfast dishes. I’d meant to go for a walk right after breakfast, but I’d been preoccupied by the police presence. If she’d asked me what I’d been doing for the past half hour, I would have had to say, “Pacing the bedroom and trying to eavesdrop on you.”

If she’d asked me if I’d seen or heard anything out of the ordinary, I’d have said no, except for the sound I’d heard while reading the paper on the couch. It had sounded kind of like a cat yowling, and sort of like a baby crying. I’d thought to check it out, but it sounded far away, and we have a neighborhood stray cat that makes a lot of noise for no reason, so I didn’t think an investigation would turn up anything unusual. Besides, I still had coffee to drink and it couldn’t really have been a woman shrieking. That kind of thing doesn’t happen on my street.

It was the officer who spoke first, answering my unspoken question about the nature of the accident. “Actually, your neighbor seems to have taken his own life.”

I think I gasped. “That’s horrible,” was all I could think to say. “Yes,” she said, “It is.” She gave me a sad smile and put a hand on my shoulder. Had she done this for the crying woman, too? I wondered how she could stay in touch with her compassion in her line of work without burning out. She must have to preside over “accident” scenes all the time. “You might not want to go down that street,” she suggested, gesturing toward the ambulance and the knot of uniformed men and women milling around it.

Was it a gory scene? I don’t know—I took her advice and didn’t venture around the corner until much later in the day. By that time the police had gone, as well as the ambulance. If there was a coroner’s van, I missed that, too. The tearful blond was nowhere to be seen. I expected yellow caution tape, but didn’t see any. Aside from myself, there were no gawkers. You would never know anything had happened.

Later still, my other neighbors would start straggling home, greeting their pets and reclaiming their street parking without ever knowing that Buddy had spent the morning exchanging barks with a K-9 Unit German Shepherd, or that the last car in their parking place was black and white with flashing lights. Unless they knew the blond lady personally, most people were—and probably still are--completely unaware of the tragedy that came out of nowhere like a meteorite falling into a pond, leaving behind concentric shock rings slowly dissipating, by dinnertime becoming so small as to be undetectable to someone who hadn’t seen it happen.

Thursday, January 18, 2007

….Is Meeainly in the Pleeain

Did you take it? I was pleasantly surprised to find that my accent is described as “Midlands,” which they describe as “another way of saying you have no accent.” Pipi was told she has a Boston accent, which isn’t really true, although I do like to try to get her to say the word “drawer,” because unless she realizes I’m fishing for it, it comes out as a one-syllable word with an “A” at the end. (Which I love.) Anyway, I’m glad they didn’t ask me too many long “A” questions, or include any queries about words with hard consonants in the middle, like “mittens” (“mi’ens), which make me go all Cockney for some reason.

Wednesday, January 17, 2007

The Rain in Spain…
Have you ever noticed how strangely you talk? You may not think you do, but somewhere out there is an English speaker who thinks you have a strange accent. (And if you ever meet this person, you will think he or she talks funny, too.)

I don’t normally think my accent is weird, but twice I’ve managed to stay out of the country long enough, and meet few enough Americans, that I’ve been able to somewhat objectively hear what an American accent sounds like. And it’s a little funny. Not funny ha ha, like Glasgow, where they practically speak another language, but funny odd. Very flat, with twangy “A”s and growling “R”s.

Both times I’ve managed to return pretty quickly to thinking that North American English is the default way of speaking, and that everyone else in the world but me has an accent. Quickly I’m back to picking out regional American accents, and wondering if my dropped consonants and tortured “A”s are betraying my Massachusetts (MEEAsachoosetts) roots. (I love Massachusetts, and I’m not trying to hide the fact that I’m from there. I’d just rather you heard it from me, not my vowels.)

If you’re curious about what others think when they hear you talk, here is an interesting quiz that will give you some idea of what part of the United States you sound like you’re from.


Did you take it? I was pleasantly surprised to find that my accent is described as “Midlands,” which they describe as “another way of saying you have no accent.” Pipi was told she has a Boston accent, which isn’t really true, although I do like to try to get her to say the word “drawer” because unless she realizes I’m fishing for it, it comes out as a one-syllable word with an “A” at the end. (Which I love.)

Tuesday, January 16, 2007

Walking in a Winter Wonderland

Today I saw something I’ve never seen in Oakland before: a frozen puddle. It has been cold—frigid, by our standards—in Northern California lately. Frost happens here occasionally, and once I even saw it snow (very briefly, while I was standing in line to get into a Victorian mansion decorated for Christmas) but I’ve never seen a puddle of ice in the East Bay. Certainly not at 11 in the morning, under bright sun.

I don’t mind; this is what January is supposed to be like, as far as I’m concerned. I’ve never gotten used to the idea that when the newspaper issues dire warnings about winter “storms,” they’re just talking about rain. So it’s almost a relief to me when January does something I expect it to do.

Pipi on the other hand, is very concerned. For one thing, she’s from Los Angeles, so she has different ideas about what appropriate winter weather is. But she’s also a woman of food enthusiasms, and right now, it’s oranges. She can’t get enough, and we just read that the California orange crop is endangered. So I guess I should pause to give a thought to the citrus growers of the state, who probably don’t think frozen puddles are as charming as I do.

Friday, January 12, 2007

More on Coins

That’s not the only unusual coin event to happen to me lately. Those of you who knew me in high school may remember that I had an uncanny knack for finding pennies on the ground. I still do find more than the average person, I think, but for some reason I was at the top of my game then. I once found seven-and-a-half pennies in one day. (No, not a half-penny—I actually found a one-cent piece sheared in two. And seven regular pennies.)

That was my record until one day during the Christmas season. In December I was shopping on Fourth Street in Berkeley and managed to get a parking place in the Cody’s lot, which is nearly unheard of between Thanksgiving and New Year’s. So I felt pretty lucky already. When I returned to my car, I noticed a zip-lock baggie on the ground near my front tire that turned out to be full of pennies—well over a hundred, I estimate.

Usually I pick up the pennies I find—I guess I sort of halfway believe that it’s good luck. But this baggie I left. It seemed a little greedy to try to claim the luck of over one hundred pennies. I reasoned that probably someone there could use the money more than me--although north Berkeley is the kind of neighborhood where people throw away their pennies, so you never know. Still, it seemed like the right thing to do.

(You’re right; I’m exaggerating. No one in Berkeley throws away pennies. It’s Berkeley—they recycle them.)

Thursday, January 11, 2007

Another Reason to Like Oakland

This is the kind of thing that never used to happen to me in New England: I was at the photo counter at Walgreens, picking up a couple of pictures I’d had printed. When I paid, the woman at the register gave me a handful of change, including what I’m sure she thought was a quarter. But it wasn’t a quarter. I caught a glimpse of a dull silver edge as she handed it to me, and thought it was a Canadian coin. It turned out to be something more exotic: One Nicaraguan Cordoba.

Technically I’ve been had, because this coin isn’t worth a quarter—it’s worth just over five cents at current conversion rates. But I just love it when I get foreign coins in my change. It happens fairly often here. Sometimes I think it might be a part of a scam—I’ve gotten so many Indian coins at laundromats that I think people may be purposely passing them in a sort of a low-level counterfeiting operation. (They’re the same size as quarters, but only worth a few cents.) But I don’t really care. I like coins so much that I’m more than willing to take a small loss. Once or twice I’ve gotten a Filipino coin in change, and once I found an English penny. One time I found what I thought was a dime on the ground near my apartment, but it turned out to be a coin from Iran. (All the writing looked like Arabic and it took me the better part of a morning on the Internet to figure out which country it came from—sorry boss!)

It’s not completely fair to say things like this never happened in New England. I did used to find foreign coins a lot. They just weren’t as exotic. Canadian coins were very common, partly because I lived closer to the Canadian border then, but also because I think the exchange rate was closer to parity then and shopkeepers didn’t bother making a distinction. (Or maybe they thought a child wouldn’t notice? They had no idea who they were up against.) Coins from Bermuda were not unusual, either, especially pennies and nickels, which looked very much like their American counterparts. But that was about it. My friend Toby and I would be beside ourselves if we got a penny with a San Francisco mint mark, so coinage from Central America was something we didn’t even think to look for.

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Feeling Better Now

The stove’s all fixed. I’ve calmed down. Breathing deeply. Thank you for your concern.

Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Bad Day at the Office

This is what a bad day at work is like for me now. Work itself was fine. I emailed one article to the L.A. Times travel section. I polished another to send to the L.A. Times weekend magazine, but they like hard copies, so I printed one. Only I couldn’t send it because the stamps I ordered days, actually weeks ago, haven’t arrived yet. (As a side note, does it make sense for the post office to charge for postage when they send you something? You’d think they could work out some kind of deal.)

So far it wasn’t a bloggably bad day though.

I always found when I worked in an office that my feelings about my job and how each day went usually had little to do with the work. It was usually some personal interaction, or a policy change, or the way the machines I had to deal with worked or didn’t work that colored how I felt my day was going.

It’s the same now. The guy who was going to fix the stove never showed up, so I’m still singing my knuckles every time I make tea, and I spilled cooking wine all over myself trying to spritz up the stock I’d been simmering all day. But things were tolerable until it came time to knock off work and really start dinner.

Since I’m home now, it usually falls to me to cook on weeknights. I don’t mind this; I like cooking and in the days when Pipi and I both had full-time jobs outside the apartment we’d come home too hungry to cook and didn’t eat anything fresh during the week. We’d make a large batch of something Sunday and eat it as long as it lasted—or as long as we could stand it—and then it was frozen entrees or restaurant food at the end of the week. Sometimes one of us would make something after dinner to eat the next night, but then it was already a leftover before we’d even touched it. So this is much better.

On this particular evening, however, nothing seemed go right and it put me in a muttering funk. (Why doesn’t anything WORK around here? Why is it so hard to FIND anything? Who left the stupid BREAD on top of the stupid REFRIGERATOR?) I couldn’t find anything. The bag of Arborio rice I got a Farmer Joe’s the other day was nowhere. It just disappeared somewhere between the bulk foods section and the rice/grain/pasta shelf of our pantry. I was short an onion, too. The convenience store at the bottom of my hill sells onions, but the parking lot was full and I almost collided with someone going the wrong way. So I had to go to Albertsons. There’s almost nothing that puts me in a worse mood than large grocery stores during rush hour, and by the time I got home I could tell my cooking muse had deserted me, probably fearing I would start throwing things or decapitate her with a vegetable peeler.

So we ended up eating the salad I’d meant to have as a side dish as our main course. This was certainly good for us but a little disappointing. Unless you’re a rabbit, expecting rich creamy goodness and getting raw vegetables is a rough adjustment.

(Don’t feel bad for us, though. The salad had mozzarella cheese and marinated artichokes, so it’s not like we’re wasting away. And now when something like this happens I get to complain about it in front of a worldwide audience. So it’s not all bad.)

Monday, January 08, 2007

Resolution Update

After a full week of 2007, I have not done a stellar job with the resolutions. I’m not in the black yet. I haven’t cracked my Chinese textbook. I haven’t even finished the New Year’s cards. But, I only have two more to write. I have been blogging every workday. And I haven’t gone to beauty school even once. Not a bad percentage as far as New Year’s resolutions go.

Friday, January 05, 2007

Not Strictly Related But…

…Have you ever looked under your stove? I’m not suggesting you should, I’m just saying that it’s an interesting thing to do, anthropologically speaking.

Lately my pilot light has been on the fritz. My apartment came with a Regan-Era gas stove with an electric starter, and for the last few weeks I’ve been having to light it with a match because the starter is sparking so weakly. Today the manager came to fix it. He wasn’t able to—he has to come back Monday with a part—but in moving the unit away from the wall to check the connections he did inadvertently unearth a time capsule of the history of my kitchen. Pens from the Clinton administration. A piece of a plate I broke four years ago. Petrified ginger. Cat toys purchased at stores that don’t exist anymore. And a champagne stopper I’ve rummaged through my kitchen gadget drawer for on so many New Year’s Eves I can’t even count.

No wonder the stove didn’t work right. It was barely on level ground.

Now that I think about it, the kitchen hot water faucet is a little wonky, too. I hate to think what’s in the pipes.

Thursday, January 04, 2007

Published in a Most Unlikely Way


The Out Traveler is a magazine I get with my subscription to The Advocate. It’s a little on the boy-crazy side, but it’s a very good publication, with plenty of information of interest to women, and the tone is nice. They talk about places I might actually go to, and mention hotels that I might actually stay in. They don’t assume everyone is on a Conde Nast-type budget (or lack thereof).

It’s the kind of magazine I could imagine writing for, but oddly enough, a photograph is the first thing they’re ever going to publish from me. In their print magazine they have a feature called "Souvenir." It’s a page where readers are invited to send in vacation photos. A few months ago I sent a few of mine in on a whim, all from my round-the-world trip. I didn’t really expect anything to come of it, but yesterday I heard from them saying they’d like to include a Japan shot in an online slideshow starting January 8. I don’t know where exactly this will appear, but I’ll keep checking and provide a link as soon as I find it myself.

Wednesday, January 03, 2007

Okay, This Is Embarrassing

I remembered another resolution (and it’s so typical of what I do that I’m just now thinking of it): I resolve to finish my Christmas cards.

I wish I could say that I’m joking, but I’m not. Well, maybe I’m exaggerating a little. I never really intended to send Christmas cards. I wanted to, but knew I probably wouldn’t get that together. So I set my sights on New Year’s cards. Just this morning someone wished me a happy new year, so I know the moment hasn’t completely passed, which is encouraging. My goal is to get them out by the end of this week, ideally before the denuded, desiccated, abandoned Christmas trees start appearing on sidewalks, because that’s how you know the holiday season has really entered the hangover phase.

Honestly, I don’t know how I ever got anything accomplished when I had a real job.

Tuesday, January 02, 2007

New Year’s Resolutions
I don’t usually make New Year’s resolutions—I’m not really the iron-willed type, so it just usually ends in tears (and my resolving not to be such a crybaby next year). This year, though, I do have a few.


  • Relearn my Chinese characters. I always say I’m going to do this, and last year I even started, but I don’t think I studied very effectively. This year I’m going to review a few every day and see if I can really learn them this time.

  • Make some money. I’ve heard that if you do what you love, the money will follow, but I realize I’ve never heard the word “immediately” used with that saying. So far, freelancing has not exactly been a get-rich-quick scheme for me. So this year, I resolve to make a real career out of this. Part of this will involve working harder—it won’t kill me to put off some of the home-improvement projects, house cleaning, and weekday errand-running I’ve been doing lately. Normal people get these things done on the weekend and I can too.

    But mostly, getting into the black is going to involve working smarter. I’ll be doing less spamming of articles to nationwide newspapers. Instead, I’ll target the most prestigious ones and make sure my articles fit their format and style perfectly. I’ll pitch to more magazines, too. They’re where the money is anyway, and they also don’t want you to even bother writing the article until they’ve accepted your pitch, so there’s less wasted effort. (If I can’t write my way into the middle class, I can at least minimize the time I’m spending not making any money.)

  • Keep up with the blogging. I’ve been pretty good with the daily postings this year—let’s see if I can keep it up.

By the way, Ellen DeGeneres has an interesting approach to New Year’s Resolutions. She prefers to focus on what she accomplished in the past year, rather than her shortcomings. She also tries to make the resolutions that she does declare be attainable. “Don’t go back to beauty school” was one of hers for the coming year, for example. So that’s a good one. I absolutely, positively promise you I won’t go to beauty school in 2007. That one I think I can stick to.

Friday, December 29, 2006

Happy New Year!

Everyone says this, but this year, I really can’t believe how quickly the time passed. I guess time really does fly when you’re having fun.

There’s been a lot of fun in the past few days—so much that I’ve been neglecting the blog a bit, for which I apologize. We had a really nice holiday in San Francisco. My sister and her boyfriend were around on Christmas Day, so all the kids had a lot of fun together.

For New Year’s Eve we don’t have any big travel plans. We’re going to a party on Grand Avenue in Oakland, which is close enough that we can abandon the car and stumble home if we have too much root beer. I expect a mellow evening, which I think is just about the perfect way to see in a new year.

I hope you have a happy New Year, too, wherever you celebrate it!

Friday, December 22, 2006

Merry Christmas!

And happy last night of Hanukkah as well! Once again, I have failed to get Christmas cards out. I expect to send New Year’s cards again, since that’s a holiday almost everyone can get behind. But I certainly don’t want Christmas to pass without a mention. I hope everyone celebrating Christmas has a very merry one. Let’s hope the New Year brings all of us peace on Earth, an goodwill toward...everybody.

Wednesday, December 20, 2006

Ceci N’est Pas un Oeuf


See, this is what I love about Asian snacks. (And one of my favorite things about traveling is sampling the local snacks. I think you can learn a lot about a place by tasting what its inhabitants find appetizing.)

I’ve seen gummi-bears before, gummi-worms, gummi-spiders, and gummi-rats, but gummi-something actually edible? You never see this except in Asia, or in places catering to those with Asian tastes. Pipi found these gummi-eggs at a candy shop in Chinatown while shopping for white rabbit candy. They were disconcertingly served to me in this frying pan, which made them look pretty realistic, if a little rubbery and cold.

Tuesday, December 19, 2006

Not as Much Fun as it Smells


I didn’t promise I wouldn’t whine about other things. Right now I’m having an experience that never used to happen to me when I was working in an office. Yesterday morning they started replacing the roof on the building that is about three feet from my window. You can imagine how nice it smells in my apartment right now. Yesterday I left for a little while—I have a laptop, so theoretically I can work anywhere. But I missed the UPS delivery guy while I was out. I feel pretty badly about that because I promised a neighbor I’d sign for her package while she was at work. (I also apparently missed a package of my own, although I wasn’t expecting one.)

So today I feel like I really have to stick around until he comes. Although I’m getting a little light headed and I feel strange, like maybe I’m going on and on and not making a lot of potatoes. It smells like someone’s burning tires next door. I know I have a history of being a little obsessive about the UPS truck, but today I REALLY want him to come quickly.

Monday, December 18, 2006

Playing Santa

I got to see a new part of San Francisco over the weekend volunteering for a charity group. This group mentors at-risk kids, and during the holidays raises money to provide Christmas gifts for needy families.

We have a friend who works for this organization, and she matched us up with a family that has two kids, a 2-year-old girl and a 4-year-old boy. We did some shopping for them. They asked for cute things, like a set of magnetic building blocks, and a Dora the Explorer figurine. We enjoyed the shopping, and were very relieved we didn’t have to buy Barbie dolls or anything like that.

Friday evening there was a huge wrapping party where volunteers wrapped up and tagged the thousands of gifts that people had donated. The party was at their warehouse in the Dogpatch neighborhood of San Francisco, an up-and-coming area near Bayview/Hunters Point, where most of their clients live. We managed to get ourselves placed at the same wrapping station as the presents we’d purchased, so we got to wrap our own gifts. That made the giving effort feel even more personal, which was nice.

The next morning there was a massive delivery operation. Pipi and I made sure we were on a route that included our family. They turned out to be really sweet, the kind of family it’s easy to feel good about helping. They live in public housing, but it was a relatively nice place. Their building was brand new and still in really good shape. They kept a nice neat home, and I didn’t get a sense of chronic dysfunction. I can imagine them on their feet before too long.

The last family we delivered to was more troubling. They lived in Hayes Valley, which I would characterize as a decent neighborhood, but this was a horrible building. The apartment was dark and filthy, with mildew all over the walls and carpet. There was almost no furniture. Someone was sleeping on the floor in the living room—at noon. It was bleak. We were glad to be helping them, too, of course, but we couldn’t help but worry that maybe a lack of stocking stuffers wasn’t the worst problem this family was dealing with. It was a slightly unsettling glimpse into a set of life experiences very different from my own. It certainly made me grateful for what I’ve got, and I promise not to whine any more about how little my job is paying right now.

Thursday, December 14, 2006

Not Strictly Related, But….


…My friend Sarah is in town this week. She and I went to college together, and now she and her husband and new baby live in New Zealand.

This is a picture of their baby, Sage, born August 31, 2006. Isn’t she cute? I’m a very proud “auntie.”

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

Comcast Confab

Something is going on across the street.

All week, there has been at least one Comcast cable company van parked in front of the building across the street from me. Sometimes more than one. I almost never see actual employees doing anything but sitting in their trucks eating lunch, but they’ve been there for days. (On Tuesday I did see one guy climb a pole on my side of the street.)

Yesterday there was one van there bright and early. Later, it was joined by another. The crews seemed to know each other, and had a good time having a very high-volume conversation in Spanish that I didn’t catch much of. (Good practice, though. And don’t tell me I shouldn’t have been listening. If the conversation is above 70 decibels, it’s not eavesdropping.)

Later, the second van seemed to have some sort of problem. So a third was called to jump-start number two. That didn’t work, so van number one and three both took off, leaving the battery for dead. Finally a tow truck was called and it took number two away.

This morning, a van was back. (I can’t tell if it’s the same vans every day.) It didn’t get there until about 10am, so the driver had some furious coffee drinking to do to make up for his late start. He’s gone now, though. I bet he’ll be back at lunchtime.

Tuesday, December 12, 2006

Paradigm Shift

Lately I’ve been rethinking my strategy a lot. Getting a story accepted to an anthology was a nice affirmation, and a suggestion that maybe I have a marketing problem, not a talent deficiency.

My marketing has so far been directed mostly toward newspapers, but looking back on it, I realize that I’m getting a much greater yield from the submissions I send to anthologies and magazines. It’s almost too small of a sample to be statistically significant, but I think it’s worth considering a switch to target magazines in the future. They pay more, and are generally read by a wider (though not necessarily larger) group of people. I think it’s time I stop, or at least cut back on knocking myself out to write finished articles that either disappear into the black hole of editorial indifference or get rejected immediately because the editor can’t afford freelance work anymore.

I still have a Mongolia overview piece that’s on the desk of an editor or two, but once another week or so has gone by with no word, I’m going to start by re-working that and seeing what magazines I can tempt. I’ll let you know how that goes.

Monday, December 11, 2006

Downtown Deco


Here’s another interesting thing I saw recently. Any guesses what this little deco fortress is used for? I wouldn’t have guessed, but a plaque explains it: The building is located at the entrance to a tunnel that leads from Oakland to the island of Alameda. This little building was constructed in the 1930s to hide giant fans that keep fresh air moving through the tunnel. I love it. I don’t know how the other tunnels in town handle the fresh air problem, but this seems like an exceptionally elegant solution.

Friday, December 08, 2006

He’s Back!


My guy is back, the one I wanted to show you a picture of. He was right there on the corner where I last saw him. Maybe they take him in at night. Anyway, I’m very happy to see that he wasn’t recycled.

I’m still not sure if this is supposed to be anyone in particular. The statue is located on the corner of Seventh and Madison Streets--I don’t suppose it’s James Madison, is it? I don’t really think so. I’ll try to see what I can find out about it.

Thursday, December 07, 2006

Christmas Time in the City


I remembered something else that made me wish I’d had a camera handy while I was out walking the other day: I passed a little park known to Pipi and me as “The Bunny Park” because it’s full of rabbits. (I think they’re abandoned pets, because they’re all fat and black, not lithe and feral looking. This is sad, but I’ve been seeing them there for years, so the community seems to be thriving. Pipi and I feed them baby carrots a lot.)

There was a police car parked nearby, with lettering all over it saying “K-9 Unit—Danger.” The officer and his fearsome German shepherd were in the park. But they weren’t chasing down a perp (or bunnies). They were playing fetch. It was very cute, and I wish I could have shared the scene with you. I have to start taking a camera with me on my urban hikes.

In the meantime, here’s something else nice in my own neighborhood: It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas on Park Boulevard. (This is not my house--I don’t actually know the people who live there, but they do Christmas in a big way every year.)

Wednesday, December 06, 2006

Awkward Question

Well, honestly, I’m a little taken aback--I was raised not to talk too much about things like this, so I’m going to be a little evasive. The answer is: not very much. They aren’t paying me very much at all for the piece. But it’s something. I also get free and reduced-price copies of the book. And exposure. That’s the real reward. It puts my name out there.
I’m thinking of this as a brand-building exercise. And really, who wouldn’t be happy seeing their name appear anywhere near the word “Best?” (Not exactly in the same sentence, but at least in the same 80,000-word tome.)

And it important to remember that Traveler’s Tales is paying me a lot more than all the newspapers that aren’t publishing me, so I’m not complaining.

Tuesday, December 05, 2006

Take the Champagne out of the Freezer

You may notice I said Traveler’s Tales is “interested” in using my story. I say that because the contract they sent me appears to have a little wiggle room. They asked for my permission to use it, but they haven’t promised that they will do so. So just to warn you, I don’t think publication is set in stone. I’m not popping any corks yet. But I’m still very excited for February.

Monday, December 04, 2006

Anthologized!

I got excellent news today from Traveler’s Tales. They are interested in using one of my stories in The Best Women’s Travel Writing 2007, scheduled to be published next spring.

The piece is my “Tale of Two Turkeys” essay. That one has done well for me, having won an essay contest at the travel writing conference that initially inspired me to write the story down. I used the prize--credit with an airline ticket consolidator--to subsidize my trip around the world last summer. Since then I’ve been absolutely shameless about promoting it, sending it to practically every newspaper in the country. (I sent it to the SF Chronicle two Thanksgivings in a row.) I’ve submitted it to a handful of additional essay contests, and at least two anthologies. It’s on my website. I link to it every chance I get. I mention it every chance I get. I’m still writing about it now.

I was starting to feel like a little bit of a one-hit wonder on the state fair circuit, leaning embarrassingly heavily on my one familiar work while wondering why no one wants to hear the new stuff. But it is paying off. I’m learning that in freelance writing, marketing may be as important as talent, and it may not be possible to overplay your hand. I may be making myself cringe, but that seems to be what it takes to get the world to notice.